As we step into a new year, Jonathan Cohen is embarking on an exciting journey of transformation. This time, he has joined forces with Marina and Ricardo Larroudé, who are enhancing his ready-to-wear production by utilizing facilities located in Brazil. In the future, Cohen plans to unveil his creations under two distinct lines: White Label and Black Label. The White Label line will feature "see-now, buy-now" releases, allowing customers immediate access to his designs, while the more elaborate Black Label pieces will be made available as they are completed. Marina Larroudé shared, "We recognized an opportunity to integrate more creative individuals into the dynamic company we have developed, allowing them to focus solely on the creative aspects of the brand. The vision, products, and design remain Jonathan’s, but we provide the operational support behind the scenes."
Interestingly, you won't find Cohen donning the dresses, separates, or shoes featured in this collection—though he might wear the scarves. Instead, this collection is designed with the "aspirational customer" in mind, an audience that Cohen feels has largely been overlooked. The Jonathan Cohen White Label essentially represents what many refer to as a contemporary or bridge collection, which signifies well-thought-out designs offered at a price point that is more accessible. With fifteen years of experience under his belt, Cohen has a deep understanding of the fit and joyful style that resonates with his clientele. Rather than getting caught up in conceptual designs, he focuses on practical dressing solutions. The pieces are crafted to seamlessly integrate into an existing wardrobe, with thoughtful details such as a pre-tied cropped white button-down shirt and a beloved bustier incorporated into a dress, catering to the practical needs of the wearer.
The collection features a limited range of silhouettes, including shirtdresses, pants, tops, a wrap dress, and a skirt. However, when these items are produced in denim or upcycled black satin sourced from Larroudé's factories, they take on a completely different character—highlighting the brand’s commitment to sustainability. Cohen's love for prints shines through, as he has personally hand-painted a striking black and white stripe pattern for this release, along with a charming red ditsy floral design. This season, color plays a supporting role, primarily showcased through detailed accents rather than the main fabrics. Many pieces are adorned with colorful zig-zag stitching and unique custom buttons, adding an element of whimsy to these easy-to-wear garments. The spirit of this collection seems to echo the legacy of iconic Seventh Avenue designers like Stephen Burrows and Byron Lars.